The use of two batteries before installing ALL electronics ( including servo ) ensures that your static weight is equally balanced and any tweak is due to spring preload being off. Good quality corner scales can show you that the cross weight is off, but it could also be a tweak from unequal spring pre-load. So using two batteries makes sure this isn't happening. You can get a car balanced left to right with pins, but the cross weight ( mass, not pre load ) can still be off due to the electronics being a different shape and position compared to the one piece monolith a battery is.
#Vehicle setup ride height vs. cross weight install#
Then after I install electrics with the needed weight to balance the car on pins I'll double check tweak and ride height and lastly droop. Then I'll ensure tweak is accurate via a number of methods ( visually, as Mike mentioned above ), tweak board, and including a sanity check with 4 corner scales. Then I'll completely setup the car with camber, caster, ride height and droop with the two batteries ( a little bit of double stick tape ensures they won't move ). When I do a "fresh" build, BEFORE I install electrics, I'll use TWO identical batteries, one on each side. This step is mostly unnecessary, as I found that as long as both the main chassis plate and shock towers are FLAT and the ride height is even as well, the car will drive true and have equal performance in left and right turns, which is the important part.
If the car is straight in all other respects it will be pretty close, sometimes I hit it right on the nose and have almost no crossweight. THEN, if I want to be really pedantic, I get out my four cheapo $7 each digital scales I got from Harbor Freight. If that's all good I will put my setup wheels on the car and check for even ride height all around, which it should be if I have the correct preload on all four springs. Then I do something which might be unusual, I flip the car over on the tile and check to see if there is a tweak when the car is sitting on my shock towers, and if the chassis is straight it likely will be near perfect. When I assemble my car for a race day or even just a run I make sure the chassis is straight with my setup blocks and piece of granite tile I use as a setup board. For me, using scales is more of a tool to check tweak.
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